Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Last Days in Tofino

Our second attempt at the bear watching tour was more successful.  We hit up Breakers for some breakfast bagels to go and parked in the driveway of the tour operator trying to figure out where their door was.  After finally resolving to call the office, Captain Mike found us idling on the road side in front of his sign while on the phone with his wife.  We chose Browning Pass Charters as it was recommended by the Wick Inn (Relais & Châteaux wouldn't steer you wrong) -- but moreso because it's a mom and pop shop run by Captain Mike and his wife.  They take few people and their boat allows you to view from inside or outside -- important on this rainy day and to keep Owen warm on the ride in/out. Definitely the right choice given the other vessels we saw.

The bears come down to the shore to flip rocks and eat crab at low tide, so today's journey started at 8am. Enjoying our breakfast bagels we met the other guests, a middle aged Aussie who was in the US with her doctor husband at a conference then traveled to Vancouver to visit her mother's cousin and take the bus to Tofino from Victoria. The other guests were a family of 4; parents + daughters from Houston TX.  Captain Mike brewed up some warm bevies and off we went.

It didn't take long to spot some bald eagles.  We'd see many more on the tour including their massive nests.

Bald eagles keep watch from a barge.
The boat offered the various spaces we needed to keep Owen entertained or to provide the other guests a break.

Hanging out in the stern.
Hanging out on the second level.
Owen doing his own thing.

O Captain! My Captain.
It didn't take long before Captain Mike found us a bear along the shore.  The rocks were a unbelievably vibrant green.  We were surprised at how little interest the bear showed even with our boat engine idling quite loudly. And to think we were worried about Owen starting to cry (or make noises) when we spotted a bear.  This certainly was not an issue.

Momma bear enjoying the fruits of her labour.
We spent some time watching Momma bear before noticing that her cubs were staying put way up a tree -- absurdly high.  It's difficult to spot them in this picture but it's safe to say that the cubs were near the top of the middle tree.

Cubs somewhere up that tree.

We went to check out another location when we noticed that the cubs had come down from the tree and were now playing around near the shore. It was definitely entertaining watching the cubs fall over one another and also to see them try to play with Momma bear -- and she would literally swat them over.



Catching crabs didn't seem like a difficult task.  Without any effort the mother bear would flip over sizable rocks and within a few tries she would snatch a crab.





And at the end of it all  .. they returned to the forest.

After breakfast the family heads back into the forest.

Watching the bears was definitely a highlight of the trip.  The bow of the boat was 15-20' from the mother bear and she couldn't care less that we were around.

Working our way closer to the bears.



Too much excitement for Owen.

We moved on and saw a few other bears but without cubs.  Along the way we also spotted this island full of seals which didn't seem too impressed with our presence as they all abandoned ship for the water.


Another bald eagle was hanging our near her massive nest and apparently was drying her wings.


And when it finally cleared up, the scenery was beautiful.


We spent the rest of the afternoon walking around the metropolis of Tofino checking out the small shops.  Not much to note here.  Afterwards we hit up Shelter restaurant again to benefit from the clear sky on the patio.


Once back at the hotel I did some laundry at the hotel laundry room and Julie got Owen ready for bed.  Irene, our babysitter, was to arrive at 7 and we couldn't get dinner reservations until 830 at the Pointe Restaurant at the Wick Inn.  This was less than ideal but we went early and walked around Chesterman beach.  Once at the restaurant we were seated immediately.  The view from the restaurant was amazing as was the food. Definitely a recommendation for future visitors.

The next morning we set out for the ferry in Nanaimo.  Our plan was to catch the 12:50 ferry but we were making good time and decided to skip our planned stop in Port Alberni and make a mad dash to attempt to catch the 10:40 ferry.  After getting stuck behind some logging trucks and feeling quite certain we wouldn't make the ferry; we squeezed on as one of the last cars loaded on the ferry.  Already two hours ahead of the game on what would be a 13.5 hour travel day.



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